Instructions for professional application of Vesting LED Hardwax Oil.

1.

Newly Sanded

Sand (using a correct grit sequence) to 120-grit. Ending sanding at 120 before applying the oil gives the wood the correct size of scratch for the oil finish—the scratch is big enough to create a pocket for the oil to collect in and absorb into the wood. Ending with a lower grit creates scratches that are too prominent and will be visible. Ending with a grit higher than 120 burnishes the grain of the wood and doesn’t allow the oil to absorb into the wood. It is extremely important to use a correct sanding sequence.

Maintenance COAT

1) Clean the wood floor surface with Vesting Intensive Cleaner to remove any dirt and residues that are on the surface of the floor. Add 75 cc of Intensive Cleaner to approximately 10 liters of lukewarm water (½ cup Intensive Cleaner per 2½ gallons of water). Use well-wrung cloths and/or microfiber mops to apply the cleaner to the floor, then let the floor completely dry.

2) If needed, perform spot repairs with the LED hardwax oil, curing each repair area as you go. Then buff the floor with a maroon pad. Differences in sheen that appear at this point will disappear when the final coat of oil is applied.

3) The color of the floor may be adjusted with the new coat. Once you have determined if the next coat will be a colored oil or a clear coat, apply the new coat of LED hardwax oil to the entire floor following the application instructions (remember to always cover windows where any sunlight may directly hit the floor).

2.

If you want a deeper color, water-pop. Water-pop after you sand and before applying the oil. Use a bug sprayer or a wet towel on an applicator to get the surface of the floor evenly wet, then go over the entire floor with a T-bar to even it out and wipe off any excess water (be careful not to leave any puddles, which can pull the tannic acids in floors such as white oak and show as yellow spots). Just as when applying finish, start at a far wall and do not walk across the area you water-popped, and be particularly careful to not drag anything hard over the water-popped surface, which will close the grain and show as a lighter area in the floor. Popping the grain opens the grain of the wood, allowing it to absorb more finish and therefore giving a deeper color. Take moisture meter readings of the floor before water-popping the floor, then wait to coat the floor until the moisture reading is the same as it was before water-popping—overnight is usually a safe amount of time for the floor to dry. Then tack the floor and vacuum it before applying the finish.

3.

Apply the oil on the floor. (If direct sunlight will hit the floor, cover windows with dark plastic or paper.) Ensure the finish is evenly mixed, including any waxes on the lid of the finish. While wearing clean, non-marking shoes, use a roller with a 1/4-inch nap to spread the finish evenly over the floor (spread by hand at wall lines). Then use a red pad on the buffer to further spread the finish into the grain (spread by hand with part of a red pad at wall lines). There is not one set spread rate for the oil finish—spread rates vary by species, the grain of the wood, if the flooring has bevels, whether the wood is wire-brushed, etc. While buffing, if there is a lot of oil being pushed around the top of the floor, there is too much product on the floor. If you don’t see any finish being pushed by the buffer, there is not enough oil on the floor. When in doubt, err on the side of a little more finish instead of too little, which will not protect the floor enough.

4.

Wipe the finish with a white pad. After buffing with the red pad, use a white pad on the buffer to wipe off any excess finish that is still on the floor (use a white pad by hand at wall lines). If there is too much oil on the floor, wipe off the excess with a towel or piece of carpeting (a squeegee may be used on floors without gaps). Then use the white pad on a small oscillating buffer to ensure even application of the oil.

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